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More than anything else, sun protection will help to prevent
the aging of your skin, The sun is largely responsible for wrinkling, blotchy pigmentation (Lentigines, also called "liver
spots"), thinning of the skin, broken blood vessels (telangectasias), dryness, texture changes, uneven color and some sun
related skin diseases that make the skin look older. Daily use of sunscreen products with at least an SPF of 15 along with
protective clothing such as full-brimmed hats, long sleeved blouses and shirts, and slacks instead of shorts will greatly
reduce the aging of the skin and the possibility of skin cancer. Sunglasses will also protect the eyelids from aging and will
help reduce crows feet by reducing the squinting which comes from sun exposure without eye protection.
Anti-Aging Treatments
Sunscreen:
Sunscreens are skin-protective agents that chemically absorb the sun's harmful ultraviolet radiation, thereby retarding the
tanning process and preventing skin damage. For long-term results, wear sunscreen all the time on any exposed skin. You can
get burned even on a cloudy day or in the winter, especially on ski slopes which reflect the sun's rays onto your face.
Sunscreens temporarily absorb ultraviolet rays. The best formulas protect against both ultraviolet A--the culprit in wrinkle
formation--as well as ultraviolet B, which causes tanning and burning. The higher a product's Sun Protection Factor (SPF)
rating, the stronger (and longer) its effects. Dermatologists recommend that adults use sunscreens with an SPF rating of 15
to 30. Unfortunately, the SPF index only addresses UVB rays, and there is no standard measurement for protection against UVA
rays. For protection against UVA, look for products containing parsol 1789, zinc oxide, or titanium dioxide. Sunscreen formulas
vary considerably. Common sunscreen ingredients such as PABA, benzophenone, and octyl methoxycinnamate can cause irritations
in some people. Sunscreens with physical blockers (which lie on the skin's surface rather than bond with it) are widely available
instead.
The general rule is that sunscreen must be applied at least 15 minutes before every exposure to allow time to penetrate the
skin before the sun does. May promote acne; select oil-free formulas for face, chest, and shoulders instead.
Most sunscreens last a maximum of two years but dermatologists recommend buying a new one every year. A bottle should last
4-12 applications.
Antioxidant Cream:
An over-the-counter formula containing vitamins A, C, and/or E. While topical applications may take weeks or even months to
show results, eating foods that contain antioxidants is an excellent idea. Oral supplements may help, too, but the evidence
isn't clear. Consult your doctor before taking megadoses of any vitamin or supplement or before beginning a vitamin or supplement
regimen.
Free radicals, a kind of oxygen molecule, attach themselves to cells throughout the body in a process known as oxidation.
Oxidation disrupts cells' proper function and is thought to be a factor in premature aging as well as circulatory diseases
and cancer. Antioxidants, such as vitamins A, C, E, and beta-carotene, protect the body against oxidation.
Antioxidant Cream: Costs anywhere from $5-$125 per product.
Retinoid Cream:
Retinoid creams are topically applied lotions containing vitamin A derivatives. They range from prescription products such
as Retin-A and Renova to over-the-counter skin creams.
Retinoids may reduce fine lines and fade slight age spots. Originally prescribed as an acne treatment, Retin-A (whose active
ingredient is tretinoin, a derivative of vitamin A) has been found to do so much more. It exfoliates the surface of the skin
(unblocking clogged pores) and forces the cells below to regenerate more quickly. The result is smoother-looking skin, thanks
to the increase of collagen and elastin fibers. Renova, another prescription option, is essentially Retin-A in a moisturizing
base. Effectiveness of nonprescription formulas has not been clinically proven.
Drawbacks - May cause drying, redness, flaking, and slight tingling or burning, particularly in people who exceed recommended
applications. May increase sun sensitivity, so be sure to use sunscreen. May also make skin more sensitive, so avoid treatments
such as lip waxing or laser treatments while using these products. Won't be effective on deep wrinkles or extensive discoloration.
If no results are seen within approximately six months, pursue other options.
Both Renova and Retin-A each cost approximately $60. Over-the-counter products range from around $13-$60. However, the patent
on Retin-A is about to expire, which means that the price will drop.
Fruit Acids:
Chemical exfoliants derived from fruits. The percentage of alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) in any given product correlates with efficacy.
Most over-the-counter creams and cleansers contain around 3 percent fruit acids, while prescription products may be as high
as 10 percent. Speak to your dermatologist about what may be right for your skin.
AHAs slough off the skin's top layers, stimulating the skin to renew itself. Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), like salicylic acid,
are milder, less irritating forms of AHAs. Because they remove the dull, dead surface layer, skin appears brighter after use.
Cost - Around $5-$100.
Light Chemical Fruit Acid Peel:
Light chemical peels are physician-administered solutions of glycolic acid, alpha-hydroxy acid, or beta-hydroxy acid to the
skin. Doctors may prefer one acid solution over another depending on a patient's needs. Light peels add luster to skin and
may diminish fine lines and age spots, but will not eliminate wrinkles. This is the next line of treatment for people who
don't respond to retinoids.
While superficial or light peels do not penetrate the skin deeply, they do smooth very fine lines, lighten freckles and age
spots, unclog blackheads, and even out blotches. Patients typically start with a series of peels scheduled every few weeks,
then decrease the frequency for "maintenance."
Some redness may occur for a few days after each session. The acid tends to increase sun sensitivity. It may, in some rare
cases, cause scarring.
Costs - Starts at $150
Chemical Peel:
These deeper chemical peels use acids such as phenol or TCA (tricholoroacetic acid) which are stronger solutions than those
used in lighter peels. Chemical peels are often used on the face and are also appropriate for use on the neck and hands. Neck
tissue is very delicate, so other treatments are not currently recommended to reduce lines on the neck.
These peels penetrate the skin and stimulate collagen production. Collagen, which holds cells together, is an important component
of skin. As we age, the body tends to produce less collagen, which leads to the formation of wrinkles. Stimulating collagen
production can arrest, and perhaps even reverse, this process. Chemical peels remove an entire layer of skin at once. The
treated area blisters and crusts, revealing deeply reddened tissue. When that heals completely, in about a month, bright,
shiny new skin emerges. No anesthetic is needed for the procedure, but many doctors provide sedatives to keep patients relaxed
and prevent discomfort or pain.
A generally safe procedure, but it's more extreme than a light peel. There is a longer recovery period (two to four weeks),
more discomfort, and a greater risk of scarring than with light peels. Also, patients may end up trading dark spots for white
spots, a phenomenon known as hypopigmentation.
Costs - $500-$3,500
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